It comes in a composed mound, almost a mold, finely chopped in a lemon vinaigrette. Main salad ingredients are iceburg and romaine, cheese, green olives, hearts of palm, red onions and french fried onions on top. There are two versions-a lunch rendition, which has three grilled shrimp on the side to make it an entree-like salad, and a dinner version-the same but without the shrimp. The server couldn't exactly tell me why it didn't appear, but no matter, he said. Someone told me they had a good one, but when I went today, it wasn't on the menu. The place-perhaps unlikely-is Ruth's Chris. After just a few forkfuls, I thought that this was a salad I could have almost everyday. Finding something comparably delicious and addictive in Chicago has been unsuccessful.until my lunch today. La Scala is one of my first stops whenever I go back. It's available with many different customizations (turkey, tuna, anchovies, red peppers, housemade croutons, capers, and more), but I always get the original recipe. It is wonderful in its simplicity-iceburg and romaine, some provolone, genoa salami, a couple of garbazos, one kalamata olive on top, and all finely chopped to order and tossed in a perfect vinaigrette. It defines the genre (I think Jean Leon, the owner, may be the acknowledged creator of the "chopper"). In the years we lived in Los Angeles, my three-or-four-times-a-week lunch was a Leon Chopped Salad from La Scala (locations in Beverly Hills and Brentwood).
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